the skin-safe fabric deep dive: what actually makes activewear low-tox?
with so much jargon on clothing tags, it can be hard to understand what fabrics we should be avoiding versus opting for! this skin-safe fabrics deep dive summarises the 'go's' and 'no-go's' in the garments space, with some insight into what we're doing differently at bwh!
what your clothes are made of (and why it actually matters)
(so… much… jargon… how do i make sense of all this???)
when you read fabric tags, do you ever get stuck staring at: “90% nylon, 10% elastane” or “87% recycled polyester, 13% lycra” and don't really know how to make heads or tails of it? you’re not alone. over the years, i’ve learned that what your clothes are made of often determines how they wear, how they feel on your skin, and how they impact the planet: so, it’s important to learn to decode these pesky little labels.
here’s the thing: when we move, there's heat, there's friction, there's sweat... with this perfect storm, it’s not just about the discomfort of those itchy fabrics clinging to your skin: it’s also about chemicals like pfas, bpa, and phthalates (+ heavy metals) leaching straight into our skin. all of which, have been linked to: hormonal/ endocrine disruption, fertility issues, thyroid disease, metabolic disorders, neurological damage, and cancer risks.
that’s why we're obsessed with our fabrics: being picky isn’t optional, it’s essential. we deserve gear that supports our bodies, not silently works against them! in this post, we’re going straight into fabrics: which ones to avoid, which ones to lean into, and how builtwithhabit is trying to thread that needle.
fabrics to avoid (and why)
(most of the worst offenders are unfortunately found in the activewear that we put on every day)
these are the usual suspects; synthetic or heavily processed fibers that you probably don’t want on your skin!
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polyester - cheap, durable, but a major microplastic offender. every wash (and even wearing) sheds fibers; in fact, a single laundry load of polyester clothing can discharge as many as 700,000 microplastic fibers
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nylon - also petroleum-based and synthetic; very common in activewear blends but it sheds microfibers under friction
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acrylic - often used in knits, cheap to produce, but sheds easily and has poor breathability
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spandex/ elastane - provides stretch, but it never truly “breaks down,” which makes recycling and degradation harder
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rayon/ viscose/ modal (non-lyocell types) - regenerated cellulosic fibers, but processed with harsh chemicals (carbon disulfide, etc.); this means that it’s less safe for workers and the environment than closed-loop versions
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other synthetic/ plastic-based blends - any fabric that’s essentially still plastic in disguise (linings, blends) will have many of these same problems
fabrics worth wearing (with caveats)
(there's so much innovation happening in this space - no better time to opt for natural fibers!)
these are materials that better align with skin comfort, sustainability, and durability… but it’s important to still do your homework!
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silk - natural protein fiber, breathable and luxe; can be expensive, delicate, and often undercharged for its fragility + also raises some ethical issues
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linen - from flax, low-input crop, very breathable, gets softer over time; great choice for summer and for relaxed pieces
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organic cotton - much better than conventional cotton (no toxic pesticide use), breathable, accessible… but water use and farming practices still matter
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hemp - high-performance crop: low water, pest-resistant, strong fiber. it can be rough to start, but blends and treatments can soften it (important to understand the chemical processing and skin-safety here!)
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tencel™ lyocell/ modal - regenerated cellulose but better engineered. wood pulp is dissolved and reformed using a solvent process where more than 99.8% of that solvent is recovered. the process is much more efficient than traditional viscose, with lower chemical loads and less waste. that said, blends with synthetics or poor dyeing can diminish these advantages
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merino wool - a favorite for performance: natural stretch, odor control, thermoregulation. biodegradable, comfortable… but sourcing, animal welfare, and processing (e.g. superwashing) all matter in how “clean” it really is
where builtwithhabit lands (without giving away toooo much) 🧵
(the fabrics we source for our collection are the cornerstone of everything we do... so a WHOLE lot of thought goes into ensuring that we're delivering the very best to our customers)
i can’t exactly spill our trade secrets yet (!) but here’s how we approach fabric at bwh:
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natural at the core → we start with skin-safe, cellulosic, and natural fibers (think tencel™ lyocell, merino wool, seacell™), sourced only from mills that can prove chain-of-custody and certifications (oeko-tex®, fsc®, gots, rws, etc.)
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stretch, but smarter → instead of drenching the whole garment in plastic, we use a breakthrough stretch polymer in minimally-necessary amounts, targeted only where they’re needed for support and function
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transparency first → every yarn and finish is backed by documentation, not just claims. if a supplier can’t share certifications, test data, or dye process sheets? it’s a no from us
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skin-safe chemistry → we avoid harsh finishes and use dyeing methods that minimise chemical load
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durability by design → our tech packs focus on long-life construction through very specialised, technical mapping and engineering techniques
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care beyond checkout → we share guidance to help extend the life of each piece and reduce its footprint
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esg at every step → we weigh environmental impact and social responsibility equally in every sourcing decision
closing thoughts 💡
(let’s demand better from the activewear industry, together!)
fabric choice is one of the highest-leverage decisions in fashion, especially for us: with 3 of our 5 foundational brand pillars being: petroleum-minimised innovation, skin-first engineering, and radical transparency, this is paramount at bwh! it affects everything from comfort to shedding to lifecycle impact. the more we understand the trade-offs, the better we can choose or design garments that don’t force us to pick between performance and ethics.
real talk: the “perfect fabric” doesn’t exist. but by pushing for greater transparency, safer blends, and genuine innovation, we can get closer… and demand more from the industry.